Archive for the ‘Destinations’ category

A Race Finishes In KL: Langkawi Wowie

February 16th, 2011

I think I stayed in Kuala Lumpur longer than any traveler in the history of travel. As I mentioned in an earlier post, it was a good place to recharge my batteries and catch up on things.

Part of the reason for the extended stay, though, was catching the final stage of the Tour de Langkawi on February 1st.

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While a far cry from the competition, grandeur and history of the Tour de France (link: my thoughts on why the Travel Channel should be showing the Tour de France), this race has been around for 15 years already and is the biggest cycling event in Asia.

While the course changes each year, it generally covers most of Malaysia’s prime destinations – Langkawi, Penang, Genting Highlands, Malacca and KL. I saw only the final stage in KL this year, although following it for the duration would certainly be a good (albeit quick) overview of Malaysia. Past challenges of getting the equipment across water has kept it restricted to the peninsular section of the nation, so you wouldn’t catch Sabah if you were to chase the riders.

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The podium, being readied for the arrival of the day's winners.

Past winners include well-known US riders Tom Danielson and Chris Horner. Because it’s very early in the year, it’s a good testing ground for young riders as they gear up for the bigger races like the Giro d’Italia and Le Tour. This year, the race was won by Venezuela’s Jonathan Monsalve, while Italy’s Andrea Guardini won that day’s stage.

The ride was well organized, though lightly attended. Most of the hostels and hotel staff barely knew it was happening, though the riders sailed past their front door six times on the final loops toward the finish line. I drew course maps and let everyone know about the road closures they’d be facing, but couldn’t find a single person in the hostel who was interested in checking it out. *sigh* – professional cycling doesn’t have a lot of fans once you get off the European continent.

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The music, dancing, sponsor booths and broadcast helicopters brought a lively energy to an area of KL that is typically quiet on a Tuesday afternoon. I didn’t make it to the other areas of the course, but it shut down several main roads for a couple of hours which certainly made traffic an interesting challenge that day.

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A Quick Visit to Tagaytay

February 14th, 2011

After a day exploring the Makati area of Manila, I joined a couple of friends for lunch in Tagaytay. At first, I was skeptical about driving over an hour each way just for lunch. The stunning scenery was more than worth it.

The sky was a bit too overcast to be able to get the “perfect photo” but we ate lunch at Josephine’s, a wonderful restaurant on the upper ridge of the volcanic crater, which looks down into the lake bed and smaller volcanic peak in the middle.

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The views are truly spectacular from the ridge, which looks down on Taal Lake and Crater Island.

In the middle of Crater Island is another lake, making it (bear with me here), the world’s largest lake on an island in a lake on an island. And that smaller lake also has a small island, so it’s basically like a volcanic infinity mirror.

The massive volcanic explosions that created the larger lake took place over 100,000 years ago, but this is still considered an active site in many ways. The smaller crater has been involved in eruptions as recently as 1977, so the activity and water temperatures around the lake are monitored extremely closely.

Some distance from the city, areas in and around the lake are considered hazardous and off-limits to visitors because of potential steam venting and toxic gas buildup.  Despite the fact that the activity alert status for the volcano was raised last year, Tagaytay is still a popular destination for vacationers from Manila because of its natural beauty, as well as its lower humidity and temperatures.

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Do Do That Chengdu That You Do So Well

February 9th, 2011

One of the most common questions I get from people is “what’s your favorite place that you’ve visited?”

A challenging question, for sure. While Paris is still at the top of my list, and probably always will be, some of the best experiences I’ve had have been in places I never intended to visit.

The prime example of that is Chengdu, China. I had a passing knowledge of the city because of some discussions about the city while at my last job, but that was pretty much limited to “they have pandas there.”

With a whole month to explore China, I added it to my list.

The main attraction in Chengdu for most people is the Panda Breeding Center. True to form, though, I won’t elaborate on that since so many others have written volumes about it.IMGP2931-1

I loved Chengdu for the energy the city had. My pre-visit perception was that it was a small, very traditional Chinese city. It was anything but. With a population of 6 million, it may be small relative to other places in China, but it was far from traditional.

The contrasts between old and new were a big part of the appeal. Few people spoke English, yet the city has a very modern and very Western feel to it with all the shopping districts, restaurants, fashion and music.

In Chengdu, white people are in shorter supply than baby pandas. Most tourists visit the city for a stop at the panda center and then they hop back on the tour bus. The tiny expat population of 10,000 is comprised largely of other Asian nationals, so the Euro-centric gang is only a couple of thousand people strong. During a six hour walk through the city center and massive shopping complexes I did not see a single Westerner, yet I never felt uncomfortable or out of place.

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A few of my favorite things in Chengdu:

Sichuan opera: One of the traditions that IS common here is the nightly performance of Sichuan opera. While it’s mostly for the tourists, those tourists are from elsewhere in China, so it’s all in their native tongue. Fortunately, it’s very visual so English speakers can still enjoy it. It’s more variety show than opera, with fire eaters, ribbon dancing, puppet performances and the highlight: face-changing. Face-changing is an ancient (and very secret) magical technique involving brightly colored masks that instantly transform in color and expression – not only once, but a dozen times in the span of an 8 minute performance. It’s an impressive display when done well.

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Sichuan food: Spicy is the style here and they do it up well. I’m no foodie by any stretch of the imagination, but I did enjoy the dishes, especially the spicy green beans – peppers, garlic and green beans in a blend that can bring tears to your eyes.

Women: Like the food, Chengdu women have a reputation for being spicy. Their personalities are  far more brash and outgoing than in other parts of the country and their style of dress reflects that. While I was there, the typical outfit for a young woman consisted of thigh high boots, patterned nylons and a short skirt, short shorts or a sweater that extends just low enough to be considered a skirt. This is not conservative Beijing.

Nightlife: Chengdu is renowned in China for its nightlife, with dozens of clubs and bars around town in several night time entertainment districts. Our fantastic hostel staff invited us to join them at a  nightclub party on Halloween. Every club was decked out with ghosts, ghouls and macabre decor, along with face painters helping to dress up those who didn’t have a costume. Halloween may be a new tradition in this part of the world, but they’ve latched onto it as a great theme for a party.

Shopping and cultural districts: Some areas of the town have been renovated to incorporate traditional buildings with modern shopping and facilities, similar to Xin Tian Di in Shanghai. The best of those is Jinli – gift shops, restaurants, crafts and history all rolled into one.

Anyone who has the opportunity should spend a couple of days here. Chengdu is a wonderful place to visit, and despite the language barriers, the people are very friendly and outgoing. While walking is still the best way to absorb the local flavor, a newly opened subway makes seeing the city even easier.

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Quick Robin, To the Batu Cave!

February 1st, 2011

I try to read TripAdvisor reviews with a healthy amount of skepticism. We all have different tastes and there are certainly things that other people enjoy that I can’t stand. After reading some negative reviews of Batu Caves, I considered skipping it, especially since the rain was coming down in buckets that morning.

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But after a few days of being a lazy sod, I decided I needed to get out and see the world. That is, after all, the whole point of traveling.

I’m glad I got off my ass. This was the best thing I’ve seen in Malaysia, bar none. I enjoyed it so much that I returned for a second visit on a sunny day.

Batu Caves have a few different elements, but at the core it’s the site of a heavily visited Hindu Temple inside a giant limestone cavern. Other tourist attractions have started to pop up next door – night caving, wild animal shows and an abundance of tchotchkes at stands around the area.

It’s also the site of the annual Thaipusam religious ceremony. Each year, hundreds of thousands of worshippers walk 14km from downtown KL to the temple. The actual ceremonies vary by individual, but some go so far as to pierce the tongue, cheeks and skin with skewers. Sadly, I was one week too late to see all of that.

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The negative reviews of Batu Caves generally take the form of two complaints: it’s too difficult to get to and the number of stairs you have to climb isn’t worth it.

Wrong on both counts.

First off, thanks to an extension of the train line, getting there is a breeze. From KL Sentral, it’s about 25 minutes each way in an air-conditioned car, with light enough crowds that there’s plenty of seating for the trip. Most people in town, most websites and even most MAPS don’t show the extension. That line used to end at Sentul and many people believe it still does.

The new addition takes you right to the doorstep of the Batu Caves for RM2 each way ($0.60). Since admission to the caves and the temple is free, it’s the best tourist bang for a buck I can think of. As with most temples, you are, of course, encouraged to leave a donation.

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The second complaint of “too many stairs” is patently absurd and obviously the opinion of someone who rarely gets off the couch when they’re at home. I walked up more stairs carrying luggage to my room in Paris.

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The statues and temple are impressive, as is the massive cave atop the staircase. I think my favorite part, though, was all the wild monkeys. I’m sure living around them is annoying, but for someone from a country which only has monkeys locked up behind zoo bars, there’s something incredibly cool about seeing them running around in the middle of a plaza.

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At the hostel, many people talk about what to do here and few people actually make the trip out there. It seems Petronas Towers and beer are the only things on the to-do list in KL. I definitely recommend taking 2 hours for a side trip to the Batu Caves if you’re in town.

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Recharging in KL

January 30th, 2011

At a hair over seven months on the road, I’ve now spent 9 days in Kuala Lumpur. It’s a beautiful city, but not one that takes more than a couple of days to see. You’ve got the Petronas Towers, you’ve got the Batu Caves. Then you have the Petronas Towers and the Batu Caves. And lots of shopping malls. Lots and lots of shopping malls.nachos

Instead of wringing out every last drop of tourist potential the city has, I’ve used the time to rest, handle some long-delayed errands and kick back into the novel I had left for dead several months ago. I even started my taxes.

As part of that relaxation, I’ve purposely been a bad traveler. Over the past week, I’ve watched a lot of TV (American shows that I brought with me), read a book, went to see an American movie (Green Hornet – meh.) and eaten lots and lots of American food.

I was a pig, I admit it. I’ve had meals at Tony Roma’s, Chilis, Carl’s Jr. and Pizza Hut. Interestingly, neither Chilis nor Tony Roma’s serve pork ribs and all the pepperoni and sausage at Pizza Hut are made of beef (due to the restaurants’ need for Halal certification for the local market). But nachos, potato skins and big slabs of beef were just what the doctor ordered.

While I do enjoy Chinese and Thai dishes, I needed some comfort foods to complete the effect. With potato chips and Coke at the ready while watching TV, I spent a few days as a complete blob.

It was nice for a while. Not being on the go, not worrying about packing or trains or buses. Time to think instead of just act, time to organize myself and my plans.

I’m not sure how but I feel like a fat, lazy slob, while at the same time re-energized and ready to move on to the next stops on my journey (Singapore and the Philippines).

Being a travel purist is overrated. Sometimes you just need a taste of home, with a side of fries.

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Island, James Bond Island.

January 24th, 2011

While in Phuket, we took a day tour to James Bond Island, or as it’s known in Thai, Ko Ping Kan.

It was one of the most enjoyable day tours I’ve experienced since the start of this trip. Rather than a speedboat, we took the “slow boat” to get to the island.

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That proved to be a wise decision for a number of reasons. The slow boat had ample room to walk around on deck during the journey and allowed for great photos along the way. On a different (speedboat) tour a couple of days later, we were moving so quickly, were so cramped in and bouncing on waves so hard that photos were virtually impossible until we arrived at the destination

The tour

On arrival at each location along the tour, the crew pulled out kayaks. One couple at a time got onto their kayak, some rowing themselves, some being rowed by a crew member (ranging in age from 17 to 70). We opted for a crew member to do the rowing – partly to allow for photography instead of rowing, partly because we wanted someone who knew where he was going.

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It was a wise decision, as we rowed into secluded caves with overhangs so low that we had to lie down in the kayak to get through. We made our way inside circular lagoons in the middle of what looked like a solid island from the outside. Not ideal for photos, but we had stunning views looking up at open sky while in the center of an island.

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The movie

A couple more stops and we ended up on James Bond Island itself. I doubt that most of the people visiting were really aware of the movie Man With The Golden Gun. Hell, I barely remembered it myself, and I’m a James Bond fan.

It was the second Bond film to feature Roger Moore. While it’s not his best (that title goes to Live and Let Die, his first), it’s far better than the later devolution into self-parody like Moonraker and View To a Kill.

In an effort to refresh my memory, I watched the film again last night. Far from an incidental flyover, the island features prominently throughout, beginning with the opening scene.

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While the “nail” shaped island is the iconic one that people remember and associate with the movie, it’s the island you VIEW that island from that is really James Bond island, aka the home of Scaramanga, the movie’s villain (played by Christopher Lee). Also along for the ride are Herve Villechaise, as Scaramanga’s henchman and Britt Ekland (one-time wife to Peter Sellers and girlfriend of Rod Stewart).

Scaramanga is the world’s best (and most expensive) hitman, who also happens to be developing a solar powered laser weapon. The solar panels powering the weapon rise out of the “nail” island on command when the weapon is activated. Yes, it’s all very much the inspiration for Dr. Evil.

The film also features a few bits at a martial arts school (owing more than a little to the Bruce Lee movie Enter The Dragon) which culminates in one of the best finishes of any Bond fight scene.

I wish I would have watched the film before visiting Thailand, since other parts of the country are also featured, including a Muay Thai boxing match in Bangkok and a boat chase down the Chao Praya river. I particularly enjoyed the young Thai boy’s negotiations to get Bond to buy an elephant statue. “You are a very handsome man. Only 20 baht!”

The island

The island itself is beautiful, like the other islands in the area. It’s home to a number of tourist stands. Sadly none of them offered replica golden guns for use as a photo prop.

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We didn’t have nearly enough time to explore all its caves and hiking trails. The downside of most of the island tours we took was the extremely limited time they give you at each destination. But we did manage to get some beautiful photos.

And, in conclusion

I always loved the classic Bond films and the exotic locations are a big part of the attraction. I need to re-watch a few of them to get some travel tips for future stops.

The organized tours are always a challenge in Phuket because they take you to the same destinations that 400 other tour boats do. Getting clear photos was always a challenge, but the beauty of the area makes it well worth the trip.

Could You Love Cameron?

January 23rd, 2011

Ferris Bueller: Cameron has never been in love – at least, nobody’s ever been in love with him.

There are a lot of things to love about Cameron Highlands in Malaysia, although it didn’t do much for me.

I definitely understand the appeal. It’s about 20 degrees (F) cooler than most of Malaysia, so it’s a perfect getaway from the city. Covered in mountains, farms and jungle, the natural beauty is very pervasive with no major population centers to detract from it.

Tea plantations are a main attraction, as are strawberry farms. They fill much of the surrounding area, offering beautiful views and exceptional tea.

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Farming aside, my favorite feature was a proliferation of jungle hike trails. Mosquito repellent and sunscreen at the ready, I spent a day hiking through the jungle. It didn’t appear that many other visitors took advantage of the trails, so most of them were empty. Knowing that people have gotten lost there in the past (see: the disappearance of Jim Thompson), I took my cycling GPS along with me. It didn’t have maps of the jungle, but in a pinch, I knew it could at least tell me what direction to take to get back to town.

To say the hike was challenging is an understatement. At times, I wasn’t even sure I was still on the trail. It was frequently wet and muddy, with the occasional obstacle of felled trees blocking the way, requiring you to climb over, or under, to carry on. Certain sections were barely wide enough for my size 10 feet, even walking toe to heel, toe to heel. Taking an uncertain step would send you down the hillside 5 to 10 feet, depending on how many trees and branches blocked the tumble.

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While walking through the jungle, the variety is unlike anything I’ve ever seen. It’s a wonderful metaphor for Malaysia itself, which has a population that’s a unique collection of nationalities and religious backgrounds, all peacefully sharing space.

The area is no doubt a botanist’s dream. There are hundreds of trees and plants, all of different types and sizes filling the path. Much like my sock drawer, finding two that matched was virtually impossible.

Some articles I’ve read have said that there is such a variety of plant life in the Malaysian jungle that you could go on a hike in the jungle for a day and discover new plant and moss species. If you knew what you were looking at, that is. Since my knowledge of flora is limited to green, light green and dark green, I didn’t happen upon any new plants I could name after myself.

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One thing I didn’t have the opportunity to take part in was a Rafflesia tour. Essentially, you take a long drive, then hike into the jungle for a while so that you can get a look at the world’s largest flower – assuming it’s actually in bloom at that time. Sounded cool, but the drive to and from to “maybe” see a flower wasn’t something I was up for.

Maybe if it ate human beings, I’d have gone to check it out.

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While I saw the appeal of Cameron Highlands as a weekend getaway, it didn’t do much for me personally.

Aside from the green color, plant life and cool temperatures, it’s not unlike visiting the mountainous areas of California. Okay, they’re nothing alike when you get into specifics, but I consider the mountains and coastal areas of Southern California some of the most beautiful in the world, so I usually don’t get all that excited by the ones I’ve seen in other places. Biking north of Los Angeles on the weekends, I’ve seen dozens of strawberry (and other) farms through Oxnard and Ventura County.

So, if you’re looking for a way to get away from the heat and activity of Kuala Lumpur or want to spend time getting to see some very unique examples of natural beauty, I can certainly recommend Cameron Highlands as a place to visit.

Reverb10 #2: Moment

January 20th, 2011

As part of a look back over the past 7 months of travel, I’m taking advantage of some of the writing prompts of Reverb10.

This week: Moment. Pick one moment during which you felt most alive this year. Describe it in vivid detail (texture, smells, voices, noises, colors).

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The most wonderful moment of last year is already a subject of a blog post. It was an amazing night sitting on the steps of Sacre Coeur, drinking Heineken, listening to music and enjoying the company of a very attractive young woman.

Now, almost six months later, this is a look in the rearview mirror, bringing it to life with more detail and elaborating on what made it so special relative to all of the other memorable moments I had last year.

The Setting

Paris. The City of Lights. And there’s no better vantage point to enjoy those lights than the steps of Sacre Coeur. Perched high above the city, the classic church is a key sight whether it’s day or night. The church itself is one of the most beautiful in existence, while also providing spectacular views of the metropolis below.

On this night, lights and sounds filled our senses, but all distant enough that they weren’t overwhelming. The traffic and activity down the hill in Montmartre is perceptible, but just barely. Lights around the city allow you to pick out the Pompidou, Notre Dame, the Seine and the Louvre amongst others. Challenging for those who are barely familiar with the city, but it’s a fun game – like “Where’s Waldo?” with iconic tourist attractions. You can even see the famed Eiffel Tower by walking around the corner a short distance.

Absolutely everything felt in balance.

The Atmosphere

Absolutely everything felt in balance.

It was a warm July evening, with a cool breeze flowing across the tourist-laden steps.

Thousands of other people took up space across the many levels leading up to the locked church gates, but despite the crowd, it never felt uncomfortable. The spacious area allowed all newcomers the opportunity to sit even if they had to tiptoe between bodies as they navigated their way to an opening.

The flora that surrounds the site countered the smells of the city and collection of humanity. It was a good blend, life of all kinds mixing together. In a manner befitting a Parisian Goldilocks, the smells were neither too sweet nor too pungent. Like the rest of the evening, it was just right.

Tourists from dozens of nations were talking and laughing, without the characteristic roar you can often find in travelers indulging in cases of Heineken. The energy was palpable, but not intrusive.

Delivering the green bottles of Amsterdam’s finest were a dozen immigrants wandering the crowd with coolers. Modestly priced at 2 Euros, the beers were ice cold despite the lack of technology involved in their transport system. The vendors were quiet and polite, moving on if you weren’t yet ready for another round.

The Soundtrack

The evening’s entertainment was provided by street musicians and performers. Fire eaters and jugglers took up residence on the lower levels. We could see them, but we were happy where we were – nearer to the peak, filled with music and mood.

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With guitars and speakers hooked up to car batteries, the singers worked in shifts. We joined in just as an earlier musician gave way to Youri, a young Italian man who played until midnight and the inevitable draining of his power source.

His music was a combination of cover songs and originals, which worked wonderfully for the audience. It allowed us to sing along with the ones we knew, then we could take a break and just relax while we listened to songs that were uniquely his.

Some women in the crowd who had been drinking for a while got a bit too close for his comfort, allowing him to show off a bashful side that only served to make him more endearing to them.

The Company

As perfect as everything was that night, it was perhaps not a coincidence that it was also special because I had fantastic company, a fellow traveler in Paris for a few days.

After meeting at a bar the previous night, she and I agreed to get together for dinner after we had each finished our day of sightseeing (as we had already set very different itineraries for the day).

Following a typically delicious French dinner in the Latin Quarter, we debated what to do next. To tell the truth, a bottle of wine and a couch were on my mind, but she hadn’t been to Sacre Coeur yet, so I suggested a Metro ride and walk around the Montmartre area. I had experienced the beautiful views up there, but previous visits had been during much colder weather so I had never been part of the activity and life we found when we arrived.

I can only describe it as the most romantic setting of my life.

It was a nice whirlwind of emotion. Great company, great conversation and what I can only describe as the most romantic setting of my life. While romance wasn’t really in the cards for two people who had known each other for fewer than 24 hours and who would be in different hemispheres 48 hours later, the setting contributed to an atmosphere of excitement and passion that we both took full advantage of later on.

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Paris has always been my favorite place on Earth and a night like this only cemented that in my mind.

I’ve had friends comment that they have no interest in going to Paris because it’s too well-traveled and a bit of a travel cliché. But for me, nothing is more exciting than the art, the architecture, the activity and the sheer joy of life you can find there. Unlike many destinations that are oversold, the reality of Paris only exceeds its well-deserved reputation as City of Lights, City of Love, City of Dreams.

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Adrift in Pattaya

January 17th, 2011

When I mentioned that I’d be visiting Pattaya to some friends, they were aghast. For those who may be unaware, Pattaya is widely regarded as the sex tourism capital of the world, once described by its own mayor as the “sexual Disneyland.”

As with most places, the reality was somewhat different from the reputation. The city has been steadily building its presence as a more legitimate beach getaway, with new hotels from major brands, including Hard Rock, Hilton and others. The beaches extend for miles, filled mostly with Russian families, while recovering partiers slotted into the gaps in between.

Much like my experience at the Flugtag in Hong Kong, I stumbled on an event I wasn’t expecting. I’m definitely glad I did – it was a fun, unique experience

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As part of their effort to clean up their image, the city of Pattaya hosts a lot of events and conventions, including a Drift Competition. I’m not generally into car racing, but this is a very different type of race.

Rather than racing in circles with other cars, this competition is more about style than speed. The objective is to navigate a course, while driving in what can best be described as a “controlled skid.”

To get a real idea of the event, check out the brief video of one of the participants here:

A car skidding and sliding around the course in Pattaya.

Drivers aren’t measured by how quickly they navigate the track, the cars are instead judged in a number of categories: maintaining control in the circuit, the amount of smoke they produce from the skid, how close they get to barriers without hitting, the angle of the car through the turn (the more fishtail they get, the better, as long as they stay within the course).

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The makeshift bleachers were absurdly steep, rising 20 rows from the ground, separated by a concrete barrier from the cars as they flew through their final turn. On the opposite side of the course were boats parked inches apart, evidently relocated and jammed in from the lot that was now doubling as a track. Like watching a Cubs game from an apartment building overlooking Wrigley Field, most boats held unticketed spectators drinking, laughing and enjoying the view.

The high-energy crowd was comprised mostly of locals, along with fans that follow the races from town to town. Tourists were in short supply, as they were likely in their rooms recovering from too many hours in the sun or getting ready to indulge in the more prurient aspects of the city at the dozens of Go-go bars only blocks away.

One by one, the cars navigated the obstacles. Some fast, some slow, some taking out cones along the way and in one case, taking out an entire wall of tires that had been set up to guard drivers against injury. The car itself wasn’t quite so lucky, as it required the removal of its bumper and side panel so that it could be driven off the course.

It was a wonderful way to spend an evening, giving me an appreciation for something I’d never thought to check out before. It’s these moments of serendipitous adventure that really add a marvelous, unexpected flavor to this journey.

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Postcards from Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

December 17th, 2010

One of my favorite experiences on this trip was a 3 day journey on a ship through Ha Long Bay. For only a few dollars more than staying at a hotel, we toured the thousands of limestone islands and slept in beautiful rooms on a boat gently floating in calm waters.

The soft limestone slowly wears away at the base, giving the islands their distinctive “top-heavy” shapes.

Kayaking, swimming, beaches, cycling and karaoke made for a packed weekend of entertainment. Or, you can just lay on a cot on the top deck of the ship and read in between Vietnamese seafood meals.

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The view from atop the climb to Surprising Cave. As you may be able to guess, it’s a popular stop.

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Throughout Ha Long Bay, women row small boats loaded with soda, water, beer and snacks hawking to the passing ships. Their arm muscles could give Popeye a run for his money.IMGP3126

One of the many floating homes. Some are tied together as villages, some only in small groups of two or three. Hanging from the blue tanks are sand-filled buckets, which are used to create clam farms. Sure-footed dogs roam the bamboo web, alerting their owners of any nighttime bandits.

Some of the homes actually had generator-driven power and television.P1000724

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