Posts Tagged ‘montmartre’

Reverb10 #2: Moment

January 20th, 2011

As part of a look back over the past 7 months of travel, I’m taking advantage of some of the writing prompts of Reverb10.

This week: Moment. Pick one moment during which you felt most alive this year. Describe it in vivid detail (texture, smells, voices, noises, colors).

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The most wonderful moment of last year is already a subject of a blog post. It was an amazing night sitting on the steps of Sacre Coeur, drinking Heineken, listening to music and enjoying the company of a very attractive young woman.

Now, almost six months later, this is a look in the rearview mirror, bringing it to life with more detail and elaborating on what made it so special relative to all of the other memorable moments I had last year.

The Setting

Paris. The City of Lights. And there’s no better vantage point to enjoy those lights than the steps of Sacre Coeur. Perched high above the city, the classic church is a key sight whether it’s day or night. The church itself is one of the most beautiful in existence, while also providing spectacular views of the metropolis below.

On this night, lights and sounds filled our senses, but all distant enough that they weren’t overwhelming. The traffic and activity down the hill in Montmartre is perceptible, but just barely. Lights around the city allow you to pick out the Pompidou, Notre Dame, the Seine and the Louvre amongst others. Challenging for those who are barely familiar with the city, but it’s a fun game – like “Where’s Waldo?” with iconic tourist attractions. You can even see the famed Eiffel Tower by walking around the corner a short distance.

Absolutely everything felt in balance.

The Atmosphere

Absolutely everything felt in balance.

It was a warm July evening, with a cool breeze flowing across the tourist-laden steps.

Thousands of other people took up space across the many levels leading up to the locked church gates, but despite the crowd, it never felt uncomfortable. The spacious area allowed all newcomers the opportunity to sit even if they had to tiptoe between bodies as they navigated their way to an opening.

The flora that surrounds the site countered the smells of the city and collection of humanity. It was a good blend, life of all kinds mixing together. In a manner befitting a Parisian Goldilocks, the smells were neither too sweet nor too pungent. Like the rest of the evening, it was just right.

Tourists from dozens of nations were talking and laughing, without the characteristic roar you can often find in travelers indulging in cases of Heineken. The energy was palpable, but not intrusive.

Delivering the green bottles of Amsterdam’s finest were a dozen immigrants wandering the crowd with coolers. Modestly priced at 2 Euros, the beers were ice cold despite the lack of technology involved in their transport system. The vendors were quiet and polite, moving on if you weren’t yet ready for another round.

The Soundtrack

The evening’s entertainment was provided by street musicians and performers. Fire eaters and jugglers took up residence on the lower levels. We could see them, but we were happy where we were – nearer to the peak, filled with music and mood.

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With guitars and speakers hooked up to car batteries, the singers worked in shifts. We joined in just as an earlier musician gave way to Youri, a young Italian man who played until midnight and the inevitable draining of his power source.

His music was a combination of cover songs and originals, which worked wonderfully for the audience. It allowed us to sing along with the ones we knew, then we could take a break and just relax while we listened to songs that were uniquely his.

Some women in the crowd who had been drinking for a while got a bit too close for his comfort, allowing him to show off a bashful side that only served to make him more endearing to them.

The Company

As perfect as everything was that night, it was perhaps not a coincidence that it was also special because I had fantastic company, a fellow traveler in Paris for a few days.

After meeting at a bar the previous night, she and I agreed to get together for dinner after we had each finished our day of sightseeing (as we had already set very different itineraries for the day).

Following a typically delicious French dinner in the Latin Quarter, we debated what to do next. To tell the truth, a bottle of wine and a couch were on my mind, but she hadn’t been to Sacre Coeur yet, so I suggested a Metro ride and walk around the Montmartre area. I had experienced the beautiful views up there, but previous visits had been during much colder weather so I had never been part of the activity and life we found when we arrived.

I can only describe it as the most romantic setting of my life.

It was a nice whirlwind of emotion. Great company, great conversation and what I can only describe as the most romantic setting of my life. While romance wasn’t really in the cards for two people who had known each other for fewer than 24 hours and who would be in different hemispheres 48 hours later, the setting contributed to an atmosphere of excitement and passion that we both took full advantage of later on.

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Paris has always been my favorite place on Earth and a night like this only cemented that in my mind.

I’ve had friends comment that they have no interest in going to Paris because it’s too well-traveled and a bit of a travel cliché. But for me, nothing is more exciting than the art, the architecture, the activity and the sheer joy of life you can find there. Unlike many destinations that are oversold, the reality of Paris only exceeds its well-deserved reputation as City of Lights, City of Love, City of Dreams.

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One Night In Paris

August 11th, 2010

I’m kind of hoping that titling this post after the Paris Hilton sex tape will increase the page clicks and get my traffic up. If you’re here to see that, please see the end of the post.

There are a lot of ways to spend a night in Paris. Some of my favorites were Cinemas Au Plein Air – outdoor movies at Parc du Villettes, where I watched A Clockwork Orange and Badlands. Of course, long evenings at a café over wonderful conversation and wine are a time-honored tradition. There are also dance clubs, of course, if you’re interested in waiting until midnight for them to open their doors (and are willing to dance until 5am).

But I have to say that the best night I had in Paris was spent at church. I know, that’s kind of an unusual thing for an atheist to say but this was no ordinary church.

Sacre Coeur has the distinction of being one of Paris’s most beautiful icons, while simultaneously offering some of the best views of the city AND night time entertainment when the occasion is right.

A quick walk up after dinner in Montmartre, sitting on the steps, listening to music, people watching and drinking beer with good company. It really doesn’t get better than this.

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Sacre Coeur as it looks during the day, shot from the Pompidou.

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Sitting on the steps of Sacre Coeur, you can see the city while drinking ice cold beer at a bargain price of 2 Euros a bottle. The first bottles we bought were actually so cold, they were partially frozen. Heineken is the beer of choice for all the illegal vendors wandering the hillside toting around coolers. Until les gendarmes show up and they all scamper away, disappearing into the folds of the terrain.

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Youri – a well known street musician, who frequently is found playing at Sacre Coeur amongst other places (including YouTube here). The crowd loved the cover songs, but his original tunes were actually wonderful. He talked about working on putting out a CD and I would actually consider picking it up, if he does.

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One of the best views of the city available, dusk from the steps – my photography cannot do the sight justice. As the sun goes down, the City of Lights shows how it got its nickname.

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Around midnight, the music and the crowds begin to subside as everyone heads to the last Metro.

And for those of you looking for sex tapes, thanks for staying around this long. Might I refer you to this site.

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Confessions of a Cultural Idiot – Pt 4: Talk

May 2nd, 2010

This is part 4 of a four part series, in which I chastise myself for past experiences and give advice on fixing myself for future travels. Yes, I can give myself advice without being crazy. If you’d like to catch up, you can read:

The sin

Okay, I can’t really say that being “shy” makes someone an idiot. The problem comes in when you are situationally shy, like I am. In business meetings or when I’m with friends, I’m not quiet at all. If you were to ask my friends about my “shyness” they would give you a look like you just asked about the political significance of the music of Miley Cyrus.

Image Creative Commons: Katie Tegtmayer

» Read more: Confessions of a Cultural Idiot – Pt 4: Talk