Posts Tagged ‘hostels’

The RTW Adventure Progress Report: Part 2 (of 3)

September 14th, 2010

Two months into a journey around the world and I figured it was time to do a status update (some habits are hard to break).

Part 1 detailed my favorite destinations so far, along with a couple I didn’t enjoy quite as much.

For Part 2, here are some updates on the logistics and financials of the trip.

With all of the nuts and bolts of the trip, the critical thing is to find a balance that makes you comfortable. Here’s how things are playing out for me, so far.

Accommodations

After a stay with friends in England, I experienced my first hostel stay in Lille, France. P1010531It was not a pleasant way to start off a long journey – the hostel I booked had no real community rooms, dark & dingy bathrooms and no lockers to store belongings.

Fortunately, the hostels I’ve stayed at since then have all been significant improvements over that first one – with kitchens, bars, lounges and even low cost laundry facilities.

Along the way, I’ve been in many small towns that don’t have hostels, but the cost of the B&Bs have been even lower than some of the hostels I’ve stayed at. Throughout Bretagne, there are wonderful cozy, country hideaways for less than the cost of a nice dinner. Some of them ARE in the middle of nowhere, so having a bike helped tremendously.

I’ve balanced the hostel stays with hotels once in a while. If you search well, you can often find hotel rooms for the same cost as a hostel and even if it’s a couple of dollars more, having a private room to stretch out is worth it once in a while.

My favorite is the homestay. Through AirBnB.com, I found a wonderful flat in Paris and was able to live like a local for a couple of weeks. Far less than a hotel, and a bit more than a hostel but having a full apartment including laundry, internet and kitchen saved me a lot of money on the living expenses so it evened out.

Money

Overall, my expenses are tracking close to what I had planned. It’s a bit higher than it will be over the bulk of the trip, but I had prepared for that. Europe isn’t cheap – especially London and Paris. A few months in Asia and staying with friends for a while will more than balance it out.

My accommodations have been a bit below my budget, fortunately, because I’m running very high on food and beverage.

One of the adjustments I’ve had to make is to make more of my own meals along the way, because every time you step into a restaurant in Europe, it’s nearly $20 to get out. Even fast food runs about $10 a pop. The only exception to this rule is breakfast. A coffee and pastry in the morning costs less than a cup of Starbucks in the U.S. (unless, of course, your coffee and pastry are AT Starbucks). The early morning café stops have been one of the great pleasures so far.

Health

Illness & Injury:

Overall, things have been great. I had a cold for a couple of days in Paris, but got over it quickly. I think the moldy cheese killed it.

I have had some trouble with numb toes after days of walking. To some extent, I needed to break in my shoes a bit more than I did but I also over-do it with walking. These towns have rail systems for a reason, but I was regularly walking up to 10 miles a day. I hate to miss the “in-betweens” along the way.

Fitness:

Between cycling and walking, I’ve lost a great deal of weight and my legs are dead sexy (especially once I learned to stop gashing them open with the sharp hybrid pedals on my bike). Unfortunately, I do need to start some sort of upper body work before my chest rivals the Grand Canyon in concavity.

Vitiligo:

Most of you probably don’t know about this, but I’m melanin-challenged. It’s not a big deal most of the time but some parts of my skin tan, some stay lily-white (or burn in about 3 minutes). Being in the sun hours and hours a day – either riding or walking – enhanced my blotchiness by tanning my “good” parts, even with 60 SPF on. It’s more cosmetic than a health issue, but still annoys the fuck out of me. I’ve had to vainly start applying self-tanner to even things out a bit and eliminate the “Guernsey effect.”

I promise I’m not orange.

Telecommunications

After months of waiting, I was finally able to jailbreak my iPhone and pop in a local SIM card to use  without paying AT&T roaming charges. It was a beautiful thing while it lasted. Sadly, it went missing while I was in Madrid – and I’m still not sure if I left it somewhere or if it was nicked while I wasn’t paying attention.

I now have an unlocked cell phone that I use for local calls (replacing the SIM in countries I’m staying around for a while) and I picked up an iPod Touch for all the other iPhone functions I would rather not live without. Skype, Accio Language dictionaries, Evernote, OffMaps, HootSuite and Kindle top the list of my most used apps.

Cycling

As I mentioned in part 1, riding has been one of the best parts of the trip. The bike comes with a couple downsides, though. P1010634

With a load on it, the bike limits you to around 80 miles a day, preferably not more than 60, fewer if there are hills along the way. That means it takes a while to get to a destination that’s 300 miles away. Physically, that kind of riding doesn’t phase me, but it does cause some other issues.

You’re constantly on the move. If you want to get from Paris to Bordeaux, you’re going to be on the road every day or it’s going to take you weeks to make the trek.

With daily packing & unpacking and 6 or 7 hours of ride time, it’s challenging to get to know people and places along the way. There are a lot of days when you do little more than eat breakfast, ride, shower, have dinner and sleep. For me, that’s actually a wonderful day – but at the same time, I felt like I wasn’t really getting to know the towns I sped past.

Spain, in particular, has not been a bike-friendly country when you get past the cities of Barcelona and Valencia. Bikes aren’t allowed on the high-speed rail (which is the case in several countries) and drivers in much of Spain aren’t using to seeing bikes on their roads.

So, what’s next on that front?

I’ve temporarily left the bike behind in Madrid, so I can hit up some destinations that would have been a serious logistical hassle. While I’m in England for the next few weeks, I’ll be looking at picking up a folding bike so that I can more easily transport it and still have wheels with me for rides around the area. I won’t be using it for point to point transportation, but since I’m planning extended stays in the cities I visit going forward, that becomes less of a focus anyway.

Cycling is an important facet for me, but I’m not one of those travelers who wants to be on the bike and riding to a new location every day.

—————

Whew. Long post. There’s more, but those are the big things. Next week – Part 3: Next destinations and goal updates.

Antwerp: Tunnel Visions

July 20th, 2010

One of the real gems of the trip that I wasn’t expecting was Antwerp. After a 60 mile ride from Bruges, I rolled up to the river and saw an amazing city skyline across the water.

Antwerp - Across the Sea

Bridge? What Bridge?

I had no idea how to get to the other side of the river and my Belgian isn’t quite upto snuff, so I was a bit lost. My GPS kept telling me to go across the water but there was no road to be found.

Lots of boats on the sides of the river. Maybe you have to be ferried across – seems kind of inefficient, but who knows? So, I explored the river bank. I rode a couple miles in each direction and still couldn’t find any way across.

Finally, I decided to trust the directions I was getting from my GPS and I zeroed in exactly on the place it was telling me to go. Lo and behold, there’s a building there. Inside the building, I discovered an ancient escalator. The entire thing was made of wood – the sides, th e housing, even the slats on the steps.

Carrying a 90 pound bike on an escalator was a challenge, but I was motivated by not wanting to kill the people below me if it slid down willy-nilly.

At the base of the escalator was the tunnel to get to the main part of the city. The tunnel was long and built for pedestrian traffic, of which there were thousands taking advantage (due in part to an event the city was hosting).

Hostel Territory

I checked in at the hostel, which was not my favorite. The place was essentially a bar with owners who decided to make a few extra bucks by renting out the crappy rooms upstairs – the floor of the bar patio was covered in sand, which meant everything in the hostel was, too.

The stairs were winding, as is the case in most old buildings in Europe, but these also added an angle of inclination with each step. By the time you got to the third story, they sat at about a 30 degree angle. God help anyone who had to climb those drunk.

Finally, the hostel (which housed about 30 people) had one restroom, one stall, one shower. I’m glad I shower in the afternoon since I’m off riding in the mornings.

Wanna Watch The Boat Races?

As far as the city goes, I lucked out big time. I arrived on the final day of the Tall Boat races. While the races were over by the time I arrived, I did get to see a nautical parade of old style sailing boats and their crews – including some who were hanging from the masts 120 feet up.

The city is really beautiful and it’s a place I’d love to go back to again for a longer stay. As it was, I was pretty exhausted so after an unexpected encounter with the city’s red-light zone (more on that in two days), it was time to head for bed and rest up for the next day’s ride to Rotterdam.

Test & Adjust: Part One!

July 8th, 2010
Lille
Image via Wikipedia

In the theme park business, we have what’s known as a “soft opening” period in which rides and facilities are operated for the public for the first time. As you see how things run and what might not be working the way it was expected, you make adjustments to make the experience better. For me, month 1 is my soft opening.

I’m now one week into my journee and I now have a pretty good feel for what’s going well and where I need to tweak things. It’s been an amazing time but as I expected, I’ve learned a lot very quickly.

Here are some toplines (part 1 of 3).

Key learnings:

  1. Stick with the plan! The notes below are adjustments but not wholesale changes.
  2. Remember your strengths! The first couple of days got a bit frustrating as things didn’t go exactly the way I had pictured them – even though I KNEW they wouldn’t. Planning, logistics and adapting to new information are some of the things I’m best at, so I need to take better advantage of those skills.

Accommodations

Lesson #1: Hostels take some getting used to.

When I first walked in, my brain spiraled into “what the fuck am I doing here?” mode. I’m fairly relaxed about travel, but I have to admit that I’m used to staying in nice places on an expense account so I’ve certainly been spoiled for a long time.

By day three I had adjusted to the lifestyle and I slept well. The cleanliness in the place I stayed was the real challenge for me (hint: time your restroom visits to just after the daily cleaning).

Lesson #2: A hotel once in a while is a good way to settle my mind, let me get organized and re-group.

With my clothing and gear loaded in 5 separate bike bags, it’s been an adjustment to pack & unpack everything all the time. I still haven’t quite got the knack for what to put where, but I’m getting there.

A hotel is an opportunity to fully unpack, spread stuff out and spend some time adjusting plans without the distractions of a hostel or even a homestay.

Lesson #3: Renting a room for a month could be more challenging than I expected

Of course all the ads for rooms are in French. Duh. My limited grasp of the language has made it a challenge to even find a good resource for a room rental. I hadn’t planned on getting a room in Lille, so it’s fine for now, but I will need to improve on this as I move elsewhere.

As a foreigner, room rentals aren’t easy to come by unless you’re a student or have a work visa. Tenant rights in France are pretty strict, so once you’re in, you pretty much can’t be kicked out – which makes landlords very cautious about who they’ll rent to.

I have to back up and take a fresh look at Couchsurfing, Warmshowers and a few other sites that offer B&B style homestays at a lower cost than official B&Bs.

I just found some great places to stay in Amsterdam at Airbnb.com so I’ll be giving that a look for next week. They include week and month long rates for some places, which is right up my alley.

—————-

More to come, as I update on transportation challenges, blogging & writing and oh yeah, how about some travel reports? The Tour de France, World Cup parties and a London gay pride parade (let the jokes flow…) are all part of week one. More to come…

Enhanced by Zemanta