Seven Things to Avoid At La Tomatina!

September 3rd, 2010 by Joel 2 comments »
BUNOL, SPAIN - AUGUST 26:  Revellers pelt each...
Image by Getty Images via @daylife

I haven’t really confirmed this, but I’ve heard that the festival of La Tomatina started back in the days of bad vaudeville performers in an attempt to rid the world of its supply of rotten tomatoes. Now, once a year 40,000 people descend upon tiny Buñol, Spain to hurl over-ripe vegetables at each other for an hour.

I envision that this is what life is like working at the Heinz factory – a Wonka-like world of tomato bits, complete with beer and techno music to accompany shmushing crimson produce in the face of Pennsylvanian oompa-loompas. In my mind, that’s how ketchup is born.

The festival itself is a wonderful experience. You have to love the fact that a tiny town like this sees one day of international fame each year – with music, laughter and good messy fun. It’s one of those uniquely Spanish events, like running with the bulls, that celebrates life by just doing something illogical and ridiculous.

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This is known as a "cyclist's tan"

The extravaganza is especially popular with travel bloggers, so there’s already a wealth of great advice available online. I recommend checking out posts at WhatsDaveDoing.com and CailinTravels.com. But they missed a few bits, so let me fill in the blanks.

Here are a few things you absolutely MUST avoid so that you get the most out of the experience:

1) Anti-perspirant. Getting crushed in a crowd of hot, sweat-soaked drunk people is part of the event’s charm. Quick physics lesson – when anti-matter and matter collide, a tremendous explosion results. The effect here is similar – if you wear anti-perspirant to this event, it will create a slippery force-field between you and the other revelers as thousands of pounds of pressure push up against you as the tomato trucks pass by. You risk serious injury when you shoot like a watermelon seed out of the crowd and into a neighboring village.

2) Tour group t-shirts. Avoid these like the plague. They will mark you as a short term visitor and you will not mix in at all with the locals. As any good traveler knows, blending in with the residents is a critical part of really appreciating a cultural experience. To truly appear to be a resident during the hoopla in Buñol, you should spend the day somewhere other than Buñol.

3) Restrooms. There are 6 stalls for 40,000 people who’ve been imbibing beer since the night before. Even if your life’s mission is to wait 30 minutes to climb into a porta-potty that’s long since been filled beyond capacity, don’t do it. This is the perfect opportunity to get back to nature and relieve yourself crouched in between parked cars – the way God intended.

4) Swimming pools in the middle of nowhere. No matter what the guy selling you an overpriced bus tour might say, getting stuck for 4 hours at a public pool 30km outside of town is NOT the way to spend the afternoon after the adventure is over. The emotional scars left from seeing a 70 year old man swimming in tightie-whities will take much longer to cleanse than the tomato stains I have in that part of my back I can’t quite reach.P1020107

5) Sleep. If you’re wide awake, you may look around and ask “what the fuck am I doing here?” It’s far better to stay up all night before the festival so you can fully indulge yourself in a haze of “whooo!”

6) Bars and restaurants. Don’t spend your money on beer or breakfast before the burgundy bombardment begins, because there’s plenty of refreshment available from guys walking the street. For 2 Euros and a complete disregard for sanitation, you can pick up a full day’s supply of mystery sangria served in a used 2 liter Fanta jug. It’s a beverage AND a meal.

7) Arriving early. If you get there too early, you might accidently end up near the center of the action and get tomatoes thrown at you. And that’s just plain silly.

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La Tomatina is one of those experiences you have to see to believe. Book your 2011 trip to Valencia now!

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Postcards From Valencia: Something New

September 2nd, 2010 by Joel 9 comments »

The historic center of Valencia was certainly my favorite part, but I have to showcase some of the amazing architecture that’s a bit newer. As you travel further along the Jardines de Turia, the tone moves from sports and gardens to art & culture, which are housed in buildings that are stunning in their own right. Art, science, music, oceanography and history all have homes in the complex.

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An overview of the City of Arts & Sciences (aka Ciudad de las Artes y de las Ciencias).

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The finest in Cylon architecture –

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The Hemispheric.

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A side view of El Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía

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L’Oceanogràfic in the back (largest aquarium/Oceanography park in Europe) and El Puente de l’Assut de l’Or – a bridge with only a single pillar, using enormous cables for support.

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El Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe – built to resemble the skeleton of a whale.

Postcards From Valencia: Something Old

August 31st, 2010 by Joel 4 comments »

Valencia was one of my favorite cities in Europe. It was beautiful from one end to the other. The only frustration for me was the propensity for them to plant TREES everywhere, making unobstructed photos quite a challenge. Damn you, Valencia, and your dedication to greenery!

The city has some marvelous features, including buildings ranging from ancient towers like the Torres Serrano and Torres Quart, beautiful plazas, churches, government offices and even some amazing banks.

A few of my favorites:

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Mercado Cento – the main market in town for purchasing fresh (really fresh) meats and vegetables. Some of the beauty of this part of Spain comes from the use of tile and ceramics in the exterior of buildings. The market is one of the best examples of this.

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Inside the market. I thought about buying a rabbit on a spit, but they wouldn’t let me start an open flame in our hotel.

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Placa de adjutament – one of the main plazas in the city and the home to many of the government offices for Valencia.

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The most impressive piece I saw was this carved alabaster entryway at Palau del Marqués de Dosaigües, which houses the ceramic museum.

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One of the best features of Valencia is the Jardines de Turia park. The Turia river was prone to floods, so in 1957 they decided to divert the river outside of town. With the space that was left, they created a wonderful park with several kilometers of gardens, sports facilities, jogging and cycling paths, playgrounds, fountains and ponds.

 

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Nighttime shot of the Placa de Adjutament.

Brain Drops VIII: Random Edition

August 29th, 2010 by Joel 13 comments »
  • People who cover themselves in body paint then stand motionless for photos in public squares make me nostalgic for the interactivity of mimes.
  • The restroom in the Irun train station has a condom machine. I can’t even begin to understand why that’s necessary. Is train sex THAT frequent? Shit, why don’t I speak better Spanish? Donde esta la tren con mucho sex?
  • With all the busking that goes on in Paris, I was shocked that no one had packed a jacket onto his shoulder to play the “hunchback” at Notre Dame. So I did. There’s a fortune to be made.IMGP0903
  • People who talk on the phone in the restroom disturb me and it’s accentuated when it’s into a bluetoooth earpiece and in a foreign language because you have no idea what they might be saying or if they’re actually talking to a person and not their genitalia.
  • I can appreciate the cultural tradition of kisses on the cheek as a friendly gesture in France, but it looks weird when police officers with machine guns greet each other like that.
  • There’s a woman who just passed me wearing orange tights, a short blue skirt and an orange tee. She’s one mask away from being a superhero.
  • Reason #437 I love Europe: I walked into a small store to buy something to drink. When I stepped through the door, the shop owner literally ran from the back room with a piece of watermelon, put it in my hand, saying “have this! Please, it’s so sweet and delicious!”
  • Just saw a guy dump his fries on his burger like an additional topping. #realmenofgenius
  • Isn’t a metal detector at a night club in Madrid pointless? It’s not physically possible for anyone in those outfits to have a weapon concealed somewhere.

Can You Be a Good Traveler If You Don’t Enjoy Food?

August 26th, 2010 by Joel 25 comments »
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A British meat sampler plate. Not sure if blood sausage qualifies as "meat."

“Food is a central activity of mankind and one of the single most significant trademarks of a culture.”
Mark Kurlansky

At home, I generally ate 5 things: cereal, pizza, hamburgers, tacos and peanut butter & jelly sandwiches. There were other meals, of course, but in the course of a week each of those was guaranteed at least once.

Trying to turn me into a foodie is a challenge on par with getting Lindsay Lohan’s rehab to stick.

One of the common requests I’ve gotten since I started traveling is to take photos and write about the food along the way. But I just can’t bring myself to do it. The words aren’t there because I just don’t care.

“That’s why people travel,” was what one friend told me.

Is it? Not for me. I hate food. I eat as a maintenance activity like showering, brushing my teeth or watching porn.

Travel and food are inextricably linked for many people. On any given day, you could tune in to The Travel Channel and be hard pressed to tell if you were actually watching the Food Network, except the latter includes infomercials for The Tater Mitt and Onion Blossom Maker.

I love exploring other cultures – the history, the artwork, the lifestyle. But when it comes to the food, I’m just not that interested.

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Paella for a busload of Tomatina-survivors.

Its importance to travelers is understandable. Food is a cornerstone of a culture and to appreciate a destination, you should be exposing yourself to new things that are important to the people you’re around. That’s why one of the first goals I set out for myself in traveling the world was to dive in and try the local food. (Read: Confessions of a Cultural Idiot Part 1)

For two months I’ve been trying. Blood sausage in England, paella in Spain with types of fish I’d never even heard of, Roquefort cheese (aka mold) in my crepe in France. I’ve eaten a number of things that were never on my radar in the U.S. and I haven’t even gotten to the countries with food that’s really outside of my comfort zone.

For some reason, though, my food experiences are almost always “meh” inducing. It’s not that I hate the foods I’ve eaten, it just doesn’t make any kind of impact on me whatsoever.

To be honest, at times I’m ashamed of myself – so many cultures consider the meal a primary component of their lives and I feel like I’m missing out, but I’m not sure how to change it.

What do you think? Am I doing something wrong? Does anyone else travel with no regard to eating their way around the world?

Postcards From Madrid

August 25th, 2010 by Joel No comments »

A few photos from Madrid, for your viewing pleasure. Click on any photo to see the full Flickr gallery.

IMGP1257Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. I’ve never actually read the book (or seen the musical), but I’ve always felt a kinship with Quixote. There’s something about his combination of a little crazy and a little starved for attention that speaks to me.

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Architecture in Madrid is wonderful. While it lacks the consistency of Paris, the varying styles mesh together nicely.

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The Palace Hotel – the place where Mata Hari often stayed, along with other notables like Hemingway, Dali and Picasso. And Lamar Odom.

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The Atocha train station. Another beautiful station. Inside this one is a complete garden and restaurant, as the newer section of the station is behind the old station pictured here.P1020041

Parque de Madrid. The park is huge – even on a bike, it took me nearly an hour to cover it all. Beautiful fountains, gates, flowers and activity areas throughout acres of park built in the 1800s.IMGP1255-1

Place de Espana.

Why Americans Hate Football

August 22nd, 2010 by Joel 16 comments »

A Brain Drops special edition

Since I’ve been traveling, I’ve finally learned to appreciate soccer. Or, as the rest of the world calls it – football. Knowing a bit about the sport is critical if you want to be social in countries outside of the U.S. I’ve actually started to enjoy it, so I had to wonder “why do Americans hate it so much?”

I’m going to skip over a couple of the basics, like the fact that we’re not that good at it. And I won’t even mention the ill-fated promotional tour to Arizona that cost us half our best players.

Let’s dig a bit deeper than that:

- You can’t use your hands. Why would you deliberately disallow the use of your primary appendage? Would you pay to watch Nascar drivers who’ve removed their tires? Of course not – the crashes wouldn’t look nearly as cool and splodey.

- The games have low scores. “It’s not the destination, it’s the journey” – U.S. sports fans don’t buy that line of shit. We need constant stimulation and fireworks. We thrive on the long touchdown pass in American football, the grand slam homerun of baseball or the “we score every 23 seconds” of basketball.

- The sponsor logos are right on the jerseys. Sorry, we refuse to be that blatantly open about the fact that our corporate overlords control every aspect of our lives. It makes it easier for us to cope when we want to pretend we have a “free market system.”

- There are just too many leagues. It’s impossible to keep them all straight – there needs to be a major merger of all the various leagues ASAP. The United States loves a good monopoly – whether it’s throwing hotels down on Boardwalk and Park Place or kicking down “incentives” to entice the telecom industry to have their annual “price increase festival” in your city next year.

- The yellow card penalty pretty much means there’s no immediate punishment. In a country with a history steeped in vigilante justice, we just don’t believe in delayed castigation.

- The clock doesn’t stop. This is a double whammy. No commercial time during a sporting event means no million dollar a minute ad rates. Then on top of that, you eliminate the breaks people use to grab a Coors Light and some Doritos, decimating the consumption of the sponsor’s products.

- Players have a tendency to take their shirts off. Americans may feign outrage when they see a topless woman, but it’s shirtless men that really make middle America uncomfortable.

- Many games don’t have a winner. The thought of not being able to win is anathema to most of us. There’s no adage that says “you win some, you lose some, but most of the time you’re the same” in the American vernacular. We really don’t believe in win-win, unless we win both times.

That’s my take on it. Am I missing something?

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The Best Vacation Movie You’ve Never Seen

August 20th, 2010 by Joel 2 comments »

As I’ve mentioned before, I’m a practitioner of “shiny object tourism.” If I see something that looks interesting, I wander in that direction – sometimes at the expense of more famous sites and attractions. But the discoveries are usually worth it and this was a day that was no exception.

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I wasn’t up for riding the bike 110 miles in one day, so I made a stop in St. Nazaire, France on the way to Nantes. I’d never heard of the town before landing in Bretagne, but it’s a beautiful beach community. With a few hours to fill before dinner, I explored, wandering until I saw a sign that said “La Plage de M. Hulot.”

That struck a familiar but distant chord with me so I took a left turn and went to take a look. Sure enough, I quickly ended up on the beach where Monsieur Hulot’s adventures began with “M. Hulot’s Holiday” or “Les Vacances de M. Hulot” if you’d like to revert to the French title.

I saw this movie in a college film class and remembered some key points that made it a classic, notably the unique style of the director and star, Jaques Tati. One download later and I was able to check it out again, refreshing my memory with how wonderfully funny it is.

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The film centers on Monsieur Hulot, a goofy, clumsy everyman, and the challenges he faces while trying to enjoy a holiday at the beach. While Hulot is the main character, the supporting cast is gloriously highlighted because the film is organized as a series of vignettes with scarcely any plot.

- Created and portrayed by Tati, M. Hulot went on to be a primary character in several other renowned French films (also directed by Tati), including Mon Oncle (Academy Award winner for best foreign language film) and Playtime.

- The comedy is steeped in sight gags and slapstick, owing more than a little to the silent era, but that only scratches the surface of how the movie operates. In his films, Tati intermingles social critique with the comedy, blending the two in a unique way. Often the modern lifestyle is the target and in “Holiday,” that’s no exception.

- An array of vacationers is skewered over the course of the film – from the student who continually attempts to talk politics with disinterested vacationers to the old man who follows his wife around the beach, silently but painfully resigned to her fascination with every mundane thing she sees along the shore. Even in 1953, Tati mocked the American businessman who couldn’t stop taking phone calls, ignoring his wife and son’s pleas to relax.

- Though the film was made in 1953, M. Hulot’s Holiday verges on being a silent film, but with a twist. While there is nearly no dialogue, the atmospheric sound is a cornerstone of the film – music, bits of conversation and various sounds you find at a beach resort.

- One of the things that made Tati an acclaimed auteur was his use of multiple planes of action in his films. Rather than the story taking place in the foreground, Tati frequently focuses on a blasé bit of business in the foreground, while the real action and much of the comedy is taking place deep in the frame.

It’s not an easy film to find, but if you can grab it on Netflix, it’s definitely worth checking out. There are French and English versions, but most people would be hard pressed to tell the difference.

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Postcards of Bretagne

August 18th, 2010 by Joel 7 comments »

The advantage to cycling through a region is you get to see a its beauty in a way you can’t from the window of a train. Here are a few pics I liked from riding the bike from Brest to Nantes, with stops in Quimper, Vannes, Lorient and St. Nazaire.

It’s a beautiful area – with ports, beachfront, farmland and some amazing scenery. Signs throughout are in French and Celtic due to the strong Celtic heritage of the area. I didn’t have time, unfortunately, but regular cruises around Vannes showcase an amazing bay with stunning islands and coastline.

 

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A quiet home miles from any town.

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I loved this house. It was like something you’d leave breadcrumbs to find your way back to.

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There weren’t a lot of them, but some homes still had windmills standing.

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In Bretagne, the tides are significant. Hopefully no one wants to go sailing this morning!

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Loved this bridge, on the road to Nantes.

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Brest is pretty bland architecturally because the town had the crap kicked out of it during WWII. The Allies bombed it to hell because the Germans were working on a sub there. So, all of the buildings are 50s, 60s and 70s style. But it has a massive chateau that withstood the bombing and has a very busy port. This pic is of a dry dock, which I’d never seen before. The gate opens, water fills it up, the ship floats in and then the dock is drained.

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Part of a garden and the old town walls in Vannes.

Brain Drops VI : French Class Edition

August 15th, 2010 by Joel 8 comments »

There are a lot of random thoughts that pass through my brain while I’m traveling. Each week, I’m sharing a few of them. Please don’t judge me.

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This week a little focus on the language of the land.

  • My minimal skills with the French language makes it nearly impossible to retort with “that’s what she said” to what people are saying. But no matter how hard it might be, I’m doing it anyway. TWSS.
  • I keep hoping I’ll find a street called Rue Maurice LaMarche and there’ll be a giant statue of Pinky and the Brain at the intersection.pinky_and_brain
  • If the word gratuit means free in French, why do gratuities always cost me money?
  • I figured a city named Bordeaux would be like the French equivalent of Willy Wonka’s factory, except with rivers of wine and bubbling cheese fountains.
  • In France, a cul de sac is called an “impasse.” Shouldn’t the French term for cul-de sac be cul-de sac?
  • I’m at a Mexican salsa club in Bordeaux and am totally confused as to how to communicate. Should I not be able to speak French or not be able to speak Spanish?
  • I like that used cars in France are called “ocassion.” It makes it feel like you’re celebrating something, even if it’s just buying someone’s second hand piece of shit Peugot.
  • It’s interesting that the international song for an ice cream truck is a plinky version of “Farmer in the Dell.” Wouldn’t they make about 10 times as much money if they played Justin Bieber or something?
  • It’s far easier to understand the French than the group of Irish people I’m watching football with. It’s like trying to decipher Brad Pitt’s character in Snatch.
  • In France, churros are called chi-chis. It makes them seem even more delicious, but now I want them served wrapped in a halter top.